Italian reds and Kiwi whites for summer

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 08/07/2023 (1171 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

With all the folk fest coverage this weekend, there’s little room in this week’s arts and life section for me to yammer on too much about all things wine, beer and spirits. So here are notes on three New World wines as well as a trio of tasty Italian reds I’ve tried recently…

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The Sileni 2020 Straits Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, New Zealand — $21.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) brings intense grapefruit, gooseberry and ripe lime aromas, with secondary grassy and bell-pepper notes. There’s a hint of chalkiness in there as well. It’s light-bodied and dry — and, with a relatively older vintage, slightly more developed than younger Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand — offering ripe (but still tart) citrus flavours while avoiding getting too herbal and green. Having said that, the acidity is still quite zippy, and that chalky note gets a chance to shine through on the finish. Quite tasty. 4/5

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When Loveblock’s Erica Crawford was in town a few months ago, I had the chance to sample the Loveblock 2022 Pinot Gris (Marlborough, New Zealand — $27.99, Liquor Marts and beyond), which has just now landed on store shelves. This single-vineyard, organic Pinot Gris is pale gold in colour, offering fresh pear, peach, floral and melon notes on the nose that are lovely. It’s a dry, light-plus bodied white that delivers a fresh fruit salad of peach, pear, lemon and red apple, secondary chalky and subtle spice notes, modest acidity and a medium-length finish. Just a small fraction of the wine was aged in neutral oak barrels, meaning they imparted very minimal flavour — there are no woody notes here at all. Juicy, elegant and delicious. 4.5/5

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Football legend John Elway has huddled up with some California winemakers for the 7 Cellars The Farm Collection 2020 Pinot Noir (Monterey County, Calif. — $28.49, Liquor Marts and beyond). This red, comprised of 94 per cent Pinot Noir and six per cent Petite Sirah, is made from grapes grown in three regions in Monterey County. It’s pale vibrant ruby red in colour, while aromatically it brings black cherry, raspberry, earth, leafy and savoury spice notes. As pinot noirs go, it’s decidedly New World in style, with ripe cherry, raspberry, red licorice, cedar and cranberry notes on the medium-bodied palate, secondary earthy components, light tannin, medium acidity and some heat on the medium-length finish thanks to 14.5 per cent alcohol. A tasty, gutsy Pinot perhaps best served with food — cedar-plank salmon or mushroom risotto come to mind. 3.5/5

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Speaking of food wines, the Carlo Pelligrino 2020 Finimondo! Nero D’Avola (Sicily, Italy — around $21, private wine stores) should be on your radar for pizza or burgers. Made in the appassimento style, meaning some of the grapes were dried before vinification, this Italian red brings plum, raisin and chocolate-covered blueberry notes on the nose that are fun and enticing. It’s dry and medium-plus bodied, with ripe and juicy dark berry and plum flavours, a hint of chocolate, soft, plush tannins and a slightly warm finish (it’s 14 per cent alcohol). Approachable and fun; chill for 10-15 minutes. Available at most private wine stores 3/5

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For all your pasta and pizza cravings, the Tenuta Pianirossi 2017 Sidus (Montecucco, Italy — around $30, private wine stores) is another solid (and more serious) option. A blend of Sangiovese and Montepulciano grapes from central Italy (southern Tuscany, specifically), there’s a lovely licorice and herbal note that comes with tart cherry, anise and slightly resinous aromas. It’s medium-plus bodied and dry, with grippy tannins accompanying the firm cherry, raspberry and herbal notes, with some oak influence adding depth and character. Drink this older-vintage red now with chicken/eggplant parmigiana, cannelloni or wood-fired pizza. Available at Jones & Co. 4/5

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A 60-40 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes also coming from Tuscany, the Tommasi 2018 Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo (Tuscany, Italy — $24.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) is bright cherry in colour, with vibrant raspberry, eucalyptus, cassis, black cherry and subtle earthy notes on the nose. It’s dry and full-bodied, bringing New World-ish ripe red berry flavours that work well with the more rustic, Old World earthy and peppery notes, the modest acidity and the subtle oak influence from 12 months in large Slavonian casks. Drink now with osso bucco, steak, firm cheeses and the like. 4/5

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