A derm on how to make your skin thrive through winter

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This article was published 19/01/2022 (1673 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

In Canada, you know winter is in full effect when there are snow plows on your street and dry patches on your cheeks. Dr. Renée Beach sympathizes. Contrary to the sun and sand evoked by her last name, she resides in Toronto and as a dermatologist, is intimately familiar with winter’s ravages on our skin.

It all comes down to a not so complexion-friendly combination of cold and wind outside and electric heat inside, both of which suck humidity out of the air. Simply put: “Your skin is thirsty!” says Beach. The good news, she assures us, is that the solution can be simple and affordable. Here’s what to do.

Streamline your routine

When patients come in complaining of dry skin, Beach will usually recommend the following regimen: a creamy cleanser (gels can deplete moisture, she explains), a water-based serum ideally containing hyaluronic acid (you’ll see it in ingredient lists as sodium hyaluronate) and a moisturizer containing a blend of humectants, lipids and ceramides. In general, she advises looking for ingredients that help grab water, like glycerin and the aforementioned sodium hyaluronate. “These should be high up in the ingredient list, ideally just after water,” she says. Ceramides, which mimic skin’s natural protective function, can also help, as can emollients, especially hydrophobic ones like petrolatum or dimethicone, as they form a barrier over the skin.

Put up a good defence

While we’re on the topic of petrolatum, we should talk about slugging for a moment, an Instagram-famous trend which consists of applying a layer of Vaseline, or another occlusive ointment-type product at the end of one’s skin routine to seal everything in. Fans of the practice swear by it, but Beach isn’t convinced. “I am not a slugger — I say that with pride: I don’t slug,” she jokes. While she doesn’t consider it necessary to do on the entire face, she says it can be a good idea to apply something like petroleum jelly on one’s “vulnerable sites,” meaning areas where you might be experiencing irritation or dryness. “If you want a little bit of extra protection on those sites, that makes sense to me.” She also recommends covering extremities when going outside (i.e., don’t forget your gloves) and always slathering on sun protection. Yes, our skin is still exposed in the winter: Snow can act like a reflector for rays and even if you stay inside, UVAs pass through windows. “Think of sunscreen as brushing your teeth: a daily habit.”

Go beyond products

Speaking of habits, there are a few more that can help. For starters, wash your face at the sink rather than in the shower, because “on average, the shower temperature tends to be five, sometimes even 10 degrees higher than what we use at the sink.” And while that might feel great when it’s freezing outside, it can be too hot for the more delicate skin on the face, even possibly triggering irritation or eczema flare-ups. You also want to be mindful of patting your skin dry instead of aggressively rubbing it, which can be damaging. Another thing that can help is a humidifier to add moisture back into the air, which can moisten mucous membranes like the inside of the nose, the lips and the conjunctivae (the inside of the eyelids) as well as skin. “It can be as simple as keeping a large bowl of water in the room,” she says. Who knew?

Make moderation your motto

Just because you’re focusing on curbing dryness doesn’t mean you have to put all your other skin concerns on hold. For example, you might still want to treat things like wrinkles or pimples or hyperpigmentation. Many of the actives used to tackle these issues can be drying, but there are ways to safely incorporate them into your routine. Instead of using them every night, maybe apply them every other evening or three times a week. Another trick is to leave on a potentially irritating product for four to five hours in the evening and then wash it off so you don’t have it on all night. “Or maybe you put on your moisturizer first, give that time to interact with your skin, and then you put on the active overtop.” You can also look into gentler alternatives to your usual products. In the case of an active, that could mean a formula that utilizes it at a lower strength. Or for an exfoliant, it could be swapping a physical scrub for a chemical exfoliant containing glycolic or lactic acid, which are more easily tolerated by most skin types.

Be extra kind to your lips

Let’s focus our attention on lips for a moment, often the hardest hit by dryness. Beach knows the feeling: “I hate this — I get eczema on my lips all the time.” The biggest tip, she says, is not to lick your lips. “It’s so hard not to do, because it seems like it’ll help.” Only it actually does the opposite, wicking away moisture and thus leading to more dryness. Instead, she advises keeping a balm nearby at all times that focuses on the essentials — a.k.a. moisture — with limited flavourings and fragrances, which can be irritating. She also recommends avoiding abrasive scrubs. “The lip skin is less protected because it’s mucosa [a mucous membrane] rather than something like the palms, which have many layers of keratinocytes [the principal cells of the epidermis].” This makes it more vulnerable, which is why you want to be super delicate. “Instead, I would use a sealant or occlusive like Vaseline that adds a barrier of protection to the lips.”

Take care of your body, too

Dryness doesn’t just affect our face, so it’s important not to neglect the skin south of our neck. For starters, as wonderful as a long hot bath or shower might feel, our skin hates them afterward as they deplete it of moisture. In fact, Beach says one of the most common winter skin mistakes people make is showering too long. Her advice: “Five minutes and get out!” You also want to avoid things like loofahs or scrubs as physical exfoliation is nonselective, meaning it can unnecessarily strip off layers and cause micro-tears. Once you’re out of the shower, pat your skin dry (again, no rubbing!) and apply body lotion immediately to trap the water that’s on your skin. Then, when you get dressed, start with a fabric that feels nice on your skin like cotton or silk, and layer things like wool or viscose overtop. These are great for warmth but tend to exacerbate itch. Lastly, be mindful that if you find yourself dealing with skin that’s persistently dry or bumpy, you could have dermatitis. In that case, it might be best to seek the help of a dermatologist, who will be able to confirm the diagnosis and prescribe the necessary treatment.

Shop the advice

Avène Tolérance Extrême Cleansing Lotion, $29, shoppersdrugmart.ca SHOP HERE

The creamy cleanser: A rich milky formula that comforts the skin as it cleanses thanks to humectants like squalane and glycerin. It’s hypoallergenic and suitable for even the most sensitive skin. Bonus: The airtight container dispenses the product without letting any air in, thus keeping it sterile and safe.

Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum, $88, sephora.ca SHOP HERE

The hyaluronic acid serum: The ultimate winter skin antidote: Glycerin and squalane infuse juicy moisture, hyaluronic acid draws in water to plump from within and copper peptides rev up collagen and elastin production to make skin nice and bouncy.

Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream, $68, sephora.ca SHOP HERE

The protective moisturizer: When it comes to selecting a winter-proof moisturizer, follow the derm’s advice and look for a formula containing a cocktail of lipids, humectants and ceramides. This blue jar from Skinfix checks all the boxes.

Uriage Bariéderm Cica-Lips, $12, shoppersdrugmart.ca SHOP HERE

The lip balm: It works three ways: First, it immediately soothes sensitized lips with a comforting sensation. Next, it deeply regenerates the skin to repair damage and chapping. Lastly, it forms a barrier over lips to insulate their surface and safeguard against future aggressions.

Eucerin Complete Repair Moisturizing Lotion, $19, amazon.ca SHOP HERE

The body lotion: Dryness is Eucerin’s specialty, so it’s no surprise this body lotion is so appreciated by sufferers of rough, scaly skin. It’s laced with ceramides and urea — a compound that safely removes flaking skin — to restore moisture and relieve itching.

Vaseline Original Healing Jelly, $3, shoppersdrugmart.ca SHOP HERE

The cult-classic ointment: An oldie but a goodie. Dermatologists swear by petroleum jelly to create a protective seal over skin that keeps moisture in and potential irritants out. Follow Beach’s advice and apply it over lips and any other vulnerable sites.

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Katherine Lalancette is the beauty director of The Kit, based in Toronto. She writes about beauty and trends. Reach her on email at kl@thekit.ca or follow her on Twitter: @kik_tweets