Busing around Banff

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 13/07/2019 (2341 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

BANFF — Roaming around Banff’s hot spots has never been so easy.

I took a road trip to our treasured national park in June — and after a long drive to Medicine Hat and then a several-hour drive the following day, the last thing I wanted to do after getting to the Canadian Rockies was get back behind the wheel.

Thankfully, there’s a new motto in Banff these days: Leave the driving to us.

Introduced in 2008 as a Town of Banff initiative, Roam Public Transit now runs eight different routes that move passengers to and from the area’s most popular attractions.

This is a great way to get around folks.

“We’ve been boasting that you can get to all the Banff hotspots by transit. It’s something we’re very excited about,” Corrie DiManno, Marketing and Communications Coordinator for Bow Valley Regional Transit Services Commission, told me during a visit to Roam’s Beaver Street office.

New in 2019, are three Roam regional routes — the Lake Louise Express; the Lake Louise Scenic; and passage to Johnston Canyon. The Lake Louise Express is a highway route, while the Lake Louise Scenic and Johnston Canyon routes travel via the Bow Valley Parkway. Four new innovative and accessible commuter coaches were introduced in May for these routes. The new Motor Coach Industries model features an ergonomically designed spiral entryway, curb level ramp, and second door that opens into a first-of-its-kind low entry vestibule offering comfort and access for all passengers.

And if you’re the one who drove cross-country to get to the Rockies, you’re gonna love sitting back and enjoying the view on the coach. I sure did.

Fares vary between $2 to $5 per adult depending on where you’re going. In addition, a Parks Canada shuttle service that connects with Roam transfers travelers to Moraine Lake from the Lake Louise stop. This really is the way to visit Moraine and Lake Louise folks — parking is next to impossible at both iconic lakes unless you arrive bright and early.

On several visits to Banff over the years, one annoyance to me was always the abundance of cars (guilty here). The Roam initiative has helped alleviate congestion in a big way and had a record-breaking year for ridership in 2018.

“Roam moved 1.25 million folks throughout the Bow Valley in 2018 rather than them driving themselves in a private vehicle, which can definitely be highlighted as a way we have helped and continue to help alleviate traffic challenges,” DiManno explained. “Certainly, Roam has also become a viable option for commuters between Lake Louise and Banff… visitors can move throughout the Bow Valley while leaving their cars or RVs parked, thereby further reducing congestion challenges.

“The ultimate goal is to develop a transit system that residents and visitors use as their preferred method of getting around Lake Louise, Banff and Canmore. Roam aims to be the most environmentally sustainable way to go to work, to attractions, and to explore the area.”

Hopping on a bus isn’t the only alternative means of transport in Banff — bikes are a great way to get around and of course your boots will take you to some spots you can’t get to any other way. You can also take a ride in some sort of boat if you like.

● Two wheels is better than four: My travel companion and I spent an entire day on bikes and saw sites you would never see so closely behind the wheel of a car — a family of mule deer feeding on fresh foliage in the forest just next to the Bow River and mountain sheep locking horns on the Lake Minnewanka loop near Two Jack Lake. Not to mention the magnificent smell of the alpine forest and the gorgeous views of the area’s emerald waters.

Banff has some of the most spectacular road and mountain biking in the world. Cycling is accessible to everyone and trails range from easy to very difficult. As well, trails throughout the townsite make Banff very bike friendly.

We traversed a couple of road rides on our visit:

— The Lake Minnewanka trail is an entirely paved 13-km loop rated moderate in difficulty — there are some steep climbs, but the payoff is the portion coming down.. whee! The road offers a pleasant roll through varied terrain with panoramic views and many attractions including Cascade Ponds, Bankhead, Lake Minnewanka, Two Jack Lake and Johnson Lake. The narrow road can be busy, so ride with caution.

— The Golf Course Drive ride is rated easy and was a terrific trail to start with — getting familiar with the bikes and the terrain. The 10.9-km loop winds gently along the golf course — you can stop and watch some golfers hit a few tee shots along the way if you like. Be mindful of your approach though — no need to go roaring up to a tee box when someone is in their backswing. There are lovely views of the Bow River and surrounding peaks on the trail and stopping spots are directly beside the Bow River and a great place to take a break and just breathe it all in.

Of course there are many other trails and for more info check out the park’s website.

There are a number of places to rent bikes and various type of bikes available. We got ours right in town from Banff Adventures. They only carry the Marin brand, which in my books is a great bike. Ok, I happen to own one myself. The going rate for daily use is between $38 and $60, depending on the bike. We had front suspension mountain bikes that would set you back $14 per hour or $45 for the day.

● Boots on the ground: Banff National Park has endless options when it comes to getting your feet moving. Strolling the quaint streets of the townsite; taking a couple-hour walk to one of the local attractions; exploring one of the great treks within walking distance of the townsite; or getting out of town and taking one of the many day hikes the park has to offer. There are of course also longer multi-day treks.

Within walking distance of the townsite, some great treks are the Cave and Basin Trail; the Hoodoos Trail; Tunnel Mountain and of course Sulpher Mountain trail that takes you to the upper terminal of the gondola station where the viewing area provides stunning views of the Bow Valley.

One of my personal faves has always been the Hoodoos Trail — a moderately rated 10.8-km out and back hike that provides views of the Bow Valley and the north face of Mount Rundle. Hoodoos are formed by several years of erosion and they consist of soft and hard layers of rock and sand. I recall seeing them first as a teenager and they still fascinate me every time I see them.

● Up the creek: There are a variety of boats to enjoy in Banff — a lake cruise; canoeing or kayaking; or rafting on the river.

Lake Minnewanka is Banff National Park’s largest lake and the only one open to public motorized boating. A one-hour cruise glides over the emerald waters while you enjoy the mountainous backdrop and an interpretive presentation about the unique cultural and archeological history of the area — why the First Nations’ name for the lake is “Lake of the Water Spirits” and what happened when a dam was constructed and a local settlement submerged. The lake is absolutely breathtaking and the views from the water are spectacular.

We included the boat ride in our bike ride of the Lake Minnewanka loop. Biking and boating in Banff!

Canoeing and kayaking are ideal for a family-friendly outing on the water for a few hours, or pack a lunch and make a full day of it. There are several places where you can put in your own non-motorized boat and rentals are available at the Banff Canoe Club. Favourites close to the town of Banff include Johnson Lake, Two Jack Lake and Vermilion Lakes. Side note: Two Jack Lake has a tent-only campground that I once spent 10 days camping at. By far my most memorable and enjoyable camping experience.

In the Town of Banff, paddlers of any level may rent canoes at the canoe docks at the north end of Bow Avenue and explore a gentle leg of the Bow River or have the option to follow Forty Mile Creek into the Vermilion Lakes.

One of the more iconic must-dos in the area is to rent a canoe and paddle Lake Louise or Moraine Lake. It’s a breathtaking view as you paddle across Lake Louise towards Victoria Glacier; and the water in Moraine Lake is so clear, its like canoeing through the air. Hourly rentals allow visitors to paddle up and down these lakes, enjoying majestic views from a unique vantage.

After all this activity, you’re definitely gonna need some good food and a great bed.

● Banff has a booming culinary scene and you can find food for the most discerning palate. I’m gonna suggest three great dining spots and one must-have menu item from each that make it worth the visit:

— Buffalo Mountain Lodge’s Sleeping Buffalo Restaurant offers what is best described as Rocky Mountain cuisine with such game as bison; elk; caribou; wild bore; venison; and pheasant. The menu also features Pacific halibut; arctic char; Alberta lamb, AAA beef, prairie grown grains; fresh indigenous berries and locally-sourced veggies. But what I’m going to highly suggest is dessert. The homemade ice cream in an assortment of flavors with a plate of warmed cookies was unbelievably decadent.

— Located in the heart of the town on Banff Avenue, Park Distillery and Bar offers an abundance of small-batch spirits distilled in-house and serves up vampire-inspired cooking. The visit was made memorable by the Park Poutine: delicious fries covered in pork baked beans, diced prime rib and cheese curds.

— And finally, the Bison Restaurant and Terrace, which has a farm to table approach where you will taste the best of what Alberta’s local farms have to offer. My grass fed New York cut steak was as close to perfect as you can imagine and an escargot appetizer is a plate I will never forget, the impressive helping of buttery morsels mixed with bacon lardon and served with garlic breads and a healthy side of bone marrow.

● I’ve been blessed to stay at some great properties in Banff — the iconic Banff Springs Hotel was idyllic and the Rimrock Resort Hotel has some of the finest views you’ll ever enjoy from a hotel room. This trip I was accommodated at a new spot of the strip — The Moose Hotel & Suites.

Recently opened in June, 2016 the property is nicely situated on Banff Avenue, just a one-minute walk from the heart of downtown. The design is mountain elegance with warm, rich and natural materials.

The rooms are cosy, well appointed and have great beds.

The topper is the two spectacular rooftop hot pools with views of the mountains.

A perfect place to wind down after a day of exploring.

steve.lyons@freepress.mb.ca