Get your fun on in Flin Flon

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 26/06/2021 (1756 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

It’s the name you’ll never forget. Flin Flon, short for Josiah Flintabattey Flonatin, a character from a long-forgotten dime store novel. But good old Flonatin got a second shot at fame when prospectors Tom Creighton and David Collins spotted a copy of the book on the trail while they were hunting for ore. With no other prospects for what to call this mineral-rich place, they opted for a rhymey version of the character. And it stuck.

In addition to a holding the title as the only city named after a fictional character, this northern destination has plenty to pique your imagination. The site of it alone is otherworldly — perched atop a volcanic belt for a pinky hued rock landscape. The streets climb up and swoop down the rocky knolls reminding visitors that mining remains at the heart of the economy here.

Spend some time at the Flin Flon Station Museum, housed in the former Canadian National Railway Station to get some history and find out just how big the fish get in these parts. It’s on these grounds that you’ll also find the larger-than-life statue of the city’s namesake. It was designed by Al Capp, famous cartoonist and creator of the comic strip Li’l Abner. A Flintabattey selfie is certainly in order.

When hunger strikes, pop into the Rock ‘n Diner & Bakery for the Twist & Shout burger that comes topped with bacon, cheddar and even an onion ring. Or opt for the massive and delicious tacos salad with homemade salsa. Don’t leave without adding half a dozen butter tarts to your order for an afternoon snack.

Head south to Bakers Narrows Provincial Park for some boreal immersion into the 145-hectare Precambrian wonderland where deep dark spruces circle the vast Lake Athapapuskow, one of Manitoba’s top trophy fishing lakes. The name of the lake comes from Cree, meaning rocks all around, and you’ll see why from the viewing tower in the park. The campground offers electrical sites, a beach, boat launch and yurts.

Evening entertainment comes in the form of the rare animal called the drive in. That’s right, the Big Island Drive In welcomes cinephiles of the north to enjoy flicks on the big screen. Keep in mind that the show doesn’t start until it gets dark, which nears 11 p.m. throughout the summer. An afternoon nap may be in order.

It doesn’t get any cosier than the log cabins at Bakers Narrows Lodge. Fall asleep bathed in the warm glow of wood all around and have that first cup of coffee on the covered deck. Head out for a day of fishing and hang on for dear life if you hook one of the mammoth lake trout that like to live in the depths. For those who love minimalism, microcabins offer beds, a fridge and microwave inside with washrooms in a common facility nearby.

On the ride home, stop at Northern Buffalo Sculptures in Cranberry Portage and have a chat with resident artist Irvin Head. You may go home with one of his wood or soapstone carvings or an intricate work by a featured guest artist.

Take a driving break at Clearwater Lake Provincial Park and hop on The Caves self-guided trail. It’s a Lord of the Rings-esque hike through the mossy and craggy landscape en route to the shoreline of Clearwater lake. Peek into the crevasses where rare blooms and plenty of fungi reside. It’s only one kilometre long but requires time and attention thanks to uneven footfalls.

In The Pas, the Sam Waller Museum is a must stop, housed in the town’s old courthouse. Oddities abound here, like the famous two-headed calf, preserved beaver embryos, a wartime meat ration token and dressed fleas, thanks to Waller’s collection of over 70,000 things.

The oddities continue over at Miss the Pas, a bustling restaurant decorated with memorabilia including vintage traps and a mobile made from foil covered creatures. But it’s the food that steals the show—big breakfasts, hearty burgers and even T-bone steaks served with heaping mashed potatoes—all served up by smiling staff. Don’t leave without a trip to the loo, which takes you down Antlers Alley, a space adorned with many — well, antlers — and lots of historic photos too.

Why is it called Miss the Pas? Finding the answer proved easier said than done. The closest we came was a connection to the annual Northern Manitoba Trappers’ Festival and the Fur Queen Pageant. The owners back in the 1960s may have had a daughter who wore the crown of Miss the Pas. Do you know?

shel@shelzolkewich.com