Sizzling Saint Martin

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This article was published 06/01/2024 (644 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Géraud Vallet flips through images on his iPad, sharing scenes of verdant pastures, shepherds with their flocks and wheels of bloomy cheese aging in caves. In his lilting French accent, the former banker-turned-cheesemonger is quizzing us: Do you know when the first cheeses were made? Which four animals provide milk for cheese?

But honestly, I’m having trouble concentrating because in front of me rests nine glorious examples — from the creamiest of soft goat cheeses to the chunks of blue-veined Roquefort — and a basket of yeasty baguette on the side, just waiting for my indulgence.

Vallet’s love of cheese runs deep at his shop, Le Comtoir des Fromages, in Marigot, Saint Martin’s largest city, and the wine and cheese-tasting experience is simply a must-do on your immersion into the island’s culinary landscape.

The island of Saint Martin covers a mere 87 square kilometres in the Caribbean, divided into a French republic on the north side and governed by the Netherlands on the south. It’s small, but packs a big punch, particularly when it comes to gastronomy, thanks to strong French influences mixed with Creole roots and sprinkled with the vibrant tastes of more than 70 countries. An abundance of fresh fruit and seafood has spawned more than 300 restaurants on the French side alone.

Go for Lolo!

For a spot that big on flavour, friendliness and authenticity, head to a lolo. These small, open-air diners have their roots in 17th century West Indies culture, where villages were born on former plantations and traditional fare was served up alongside good conversation. In Marigot, a collection of more than a dozen lolos, each offering something a little different, rests at the water’s edge.

Breakfast at Strickly Lokal Creole Restaurant starts with a gently spiced sorrel juice, made with hibiscus flowers, and bush tea, a lemongrass-scented herby hot drink touted as a cure-all. Riding side-saddle to a heaping omelette is a johnny cake, Saint Martin’s version of fried bread, and every bit as addictive. Lunch at Sandy’s opens with an accra appetizer, fritters made with salt fish and a taste of the island’s own guavaberry liqueur. Then it’s on to an assortment of island specialties like stewed oxtail, grilled conch and Sandy’s curry shrimp.

Beach bests

The quintessential beach day begins with lunch at Karibuni on Pinel Island. Hop on the public ferry to get there and have a seat on the expansive deck overlooking the calm waters of Cul-de-Sac Natural Reserve. Start with the mini barbecue ribs appetizer, then look to the specials of the day which might include grilled mahi-mahi marinated in Creole sauce. Then pull up an ocean-side lounge chair for dips and naps through the afternoon.

For a decidedly fancy lunch, head to Coco Beach Restaurant at Orient Beach, where Chef Laurent Saudeau, with a pair of Michelin stars, creates flavourful and original plates. The standouts here included veal carpaccio with creamy tuna sauce, roast chicken with creamy polenta and an unforgettable chocolate pie topped with hazelnuts. It’s all served up on open air tables with comfy benches and billowing shades overlooking the blue surf.

Dinner is served

Even something as ubiquitous as pizza gets elevated to new heights in the hands of Saint Martin’s chefs. At Ristorante Del Arti, the four Fromaggi pizza comes wood-fired on an irresistibly pillowy crust, loaded with pecorino, gorgonzola, buffala mozzarella and fior di latte. Start it with arancini and split the chef’s risotto of the night with a friend. Enjoy the casual vibe of this open-air restaurant located in Anse Marcel, near the marina.

Traditional French cuisine and Caribbean flavour have found a shared home at Le Cottage in the Grand Case neighbourhood. Everything that’s so appealing about French food is here, along with undeniable island hospitality, set streetside in a cosy bistro. There’s always oohs and aahs when the lobster bisque comes out of the kitchen, topped with its golden puff pastry. When it’s time for an entrée, fresh seared scallops are topped with strips of crispy chorizo and on the side, shrimp with bacon emulsion, leeks and parsnip puree. And finally, there is simply nothing better than the best-selling caramel souffle. It comes to the table with ice cream and a server who gently carves a crevice in the centre and pours in salted caramel sauce. More oohs and aahs ensue.

shel@shelzolkewich.com