Smart cookie

St. B. bakery culmination of years of cottage-industry success

Advertisement

Advertise with us

Move over, boys — Sugar Mama is coming, and she’s bringing her cookie café to St. Boniface.

Read this article for free:


or

Already have an account? Log in here »

To continue reading, please subscribe:

Subscribe and receive a limited-edition Free Press branded hat or tote.

Digital Subscription

One year of digital access for only $205*

  • Enjoy unlimited reading on winnipegfreepress.com
  • Read the E-Edition, our digital replica newspaper
  • Access News Break, our award-winning app
  • Play interactive puzzles

*First annual payment billed as $205.00 + GST for one year. This annual subscription will automatically renew at $233.00 + GST every 52 weeks (10% off the regular annual price of $259.35). Offer available to new and qualified returning subscribers only. Cancel any time.

To continue reading, please subscribe:

Add Free Press access to your Brandon Sun subscription for only an additional

$1 for the first 4 weeks*

  • Enjoy unlimited reading on winnipegfreepress.com
  • Read the E-Edition, our digital replica newspaper
  • Access News Break, our award-winning app
  • Play interactive puzzles
Start now

*Your next Brandon Sun subscription payment will increase by $1.00 and you will be charged $17.95 plus GST for four weeks. After four weeks, your payment will increase to $24.95 plus GST every four weeks.

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 25/03/2022 (1643 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Move over, boys — Sugar Mama is coming, and she’s bringing her cookie café to St. Boniface.

Think cookies piled high with chocolate eggs or Cinnamon Toast Crunch, German chocolate and red velvet cakes reformed into cookie style, and edible cookie dough and ice cream sandwiches.

Flavours will be on rotation when the 184 Provencher Blvd. shop opens April 2.

Vicki Melo wanted to work at the United Nations. Her career had different ideas, prompted by a surge in her home-baked cookie business. (Jessica Lee / Winnipeg Free Press)
Vicki Melo wanted to work at the United Nations. Her career had different ideas, prompted by a surge in her home-baked cookie business. (Jessica Lee / Winnipeg Free Press)

“We want this place to be your one-stop-shop for all things cookies,” said Vicki Melo, founder and owner of Sugar Mama Cookie Co.

There was a bustle in the café Thursday: the espresso machine needed to be brought in; champagne flutes for the soft launch had to be set out. The seating — enough to fit 20 people — is done, but the shelves to hold baking supplies — for public sale — have yet to be erected.

Ladies in the back painted sugar cookies, while more staff upstairs made icing.

“The fact that (this is) happening is awesome,” Melo said.

Her business has been a delivery and catering service until now. She envisions customers in the shop, sitting with cookie in hand and a glass of coffee or flavoured milk (try pistachio, strawberry or chocolate hazelnut) on the table.

Sugar Mama will be open Mondays through Saturdays. Its delivery side will jump from the current Wednesday and Friday scheme to six days a week, Melo said.

She’s not a baker by trade. Instead, she has a degree in international development.

“My original plan, always, was to work for the United Nations, and now I make cookies for a living,” Melo said with a laugh.

She has three daughters. Cookie-making entered her radar when she planned to bake a cake for her middle child’s first birthday and her eldest asked for cookies instead.

“Like any good mom, I (went) on Pinterest to get some ideas, and I saw decorated sugar cookies,” Melo, 37, said.

Shannon Pham decorates one of the 25 different cookies that will be offered when the store opens on April 2. (Jessica Lee / Winnipeg Free Press)
Shannon Pham decorates one of the 25 different cookies that will be offered when the store opens on April 2. (Jessica Lee / Winnipeg Free Press)

She was intrigued and got to work, serving her first batch at the birthday party. After, Melo said her friend asked her to make a round for their kid’s big day. Melo gained customers through word of mouth.

“Within six months, it just ballooned,” she said. “It just got to the point where I was turning down orders. I thought to myself, ‘This could be a business,’ and so I kept pursuing it.”

That was about four years ago. YouTube became Melo’s close ally as she watched professionals and expanded her skillset; Instagram morphed into her publicist.

“Doing decorated sugar cookies, it’s like you have this little tiny canvas and the icing is your medium,” Melo said.

Being creative is one of the best parts, she added.

Eventually, the then stay-at-home mom built a business website. Within a couple of years, Sugar Mama was renting commercial kitchen space and hiring staff.

Melo told her husband, an engineer, of her dream to open a storefront. He reminded her of how little money she was making by selling sugar cookies — they take longer to finish than others because of the decorating, meaning there are fewer to market.

“At first, I fought him on it,” Melo said. “I was like, ‘No, it’s all about the artwork!’ But, it was probably the smartest decision I made for my business, was starting to offer other cookies.”

The new baked goods took Sugar Mama to another level, Melo said.

“They’re the delicious comfort food that sustains the business, and then the decorations are our artistic passion,” she said.

Melo envisions her customers enjoying a cappucino or flavoured milk while noshing on her cookies. (Jessica Lee / Winnipeg Free Press)
Melo envisions her customers enjoying a cappucino or flavoured milk while noshing on her cookies. (Jessica Lee / Winnipeg Free Press)

Sugar Mama currently has 25 different cookie types, though more than 100 recipes aren’t yet released, Melo said. When the café opens, she plans to make five flavours available weekly, along with gluten-free and vegan options. Sugar cookies will be offered daily.

The St. Boniface outlet has been in the works for two years, Melo said. Rising construction costs, among other issues, almost stopped the eatery from opening.

“We were at a point numerous times where I thought this wasn’t going to happen, but we made it through,” Melo said, adding that the cost of opening tripled her expectations.

“I just keep telling myself, choose courage over comfort,” she said. “Spending all this money, investing into a space and not knowing if it’s going to be a success or not, that’s so uncomfortable. But you do the work… and then you just push forward.”

Melo said her husband is a big reason why the company exists — he’s taken care of the kids often during the pandemic, allowing her to build her business.

She works with an all-female crew at Sugar Mama.

Shannon Pham and Jenna Bergstresser are among the eight Melo hired.

Despite painting intricate details onto cookies often, neither have backgrounds in culinary arts. Pham is a part-time flight attendant, and Bergstresser is a part-time nurse.

“There’s not really a lot of niche bakeries (around here),” Pham said. “When I saw (the job posting on Instagram), I was like, ‘I’m going to take my chance.’”

Bergstresser added she had the same mentality — “why not give it a shot?” — and has learned from Melo.

Some of the goodies that will be available at Sugar Mama. (Jessica Lee / Winnipeg Free Press)
Some of the goodies that will be available at Sugar Mama. (Jessica Lee / Winnipeg Free Press)

The team draws nearly anything with their fine tipped icing bags: Disney Encanto characters, cassette tapes, microscopes and amoeba.

“They just have a knack for it, and they didn’t even know,” Melo said, watching as Pham and Bergstresser easily smoothed pink and green icing onto sugar cookies Thursday.

“Vicki’s a very good teacher,” Pham added.

Melo said she’s working with her staff on ways to help others, especially single mothers. Raising money for non-profits through cookie sales is an option, she said.

“This is a platform that we can use to do a lot of good in the world,” she said.

Sugar Mama Cookie Co. also offers catering, cookie boxes to monthly subscribers and cookie decorating classes.

gabrielle.piche@winnipegfreepress.com

Gabrielle Piché

Gabrielle Piché
Reporter

Gabrielle Piché reports on business for the Free Press. She interned at the Free Press and worked for its sister outlet, Canstar Community News, before entering the business beat in 2021. Read more about Gabrielle.

Every piece of reporting Gabrielle produces is reviewed by an editing team before it is posted online or published in print — part of the Free Press‘s tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press’s history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates.

Our newsroom depends on a growing audience of readers to power our journalism. If you are not a paid reader, please consider becoming a subscriber.

Our newsroom depends on its audience of readers to power our journalism. Thank you for your support.

History

Updated on Friday, March 25, 2022 11:02 AM CDT: Corrects less to fewer

Updated on Friday, March 25, 2022 11:09 AM CDT: Minor copy editing change

Report Error Submit a Tip

More Stories

Today’s horoscope

Georgia Nicols 4 minute read Preview

Today’s horoscope

Georgia Nicols 4 minute read 2:00 AM CDT

MOON ALERT: Caution. Avoid shopping (except food and gas) and important decisions from 3 a.m. until 10:55 p.m. After that, the moon moves from Aquarius into Pisces.

ARIES (March 21-April 19)

There’s a moon alert all day so restrict spending to food and gas, and postpone important decisions. However, you are the artisan of the zodiac, and a moon alert is an excellent time for socializing and making art.

TAURUS (April 20-May 20)

Read
2:00 AM CDT

Revealing statements by Trump about courts

Editorial 4 minute read Preview

Revealing statements by Trump about courts

Editorial 4 minute read 2:00 AM CDT

Analyzing the utterances of U.S. President Donald Trump may seem like the ultimate sort of mug’s game — they are varied, contradictory, rambling, pugilistic, sometimes wheedling and the list goes on.

Read
2:00 AM CDT

Puzzles Palace

1 minute read Monday, Jul. 27, 2026

To solve our puzzles, please subscribe with this special offer: |

If you feel stuck on repeat, reach out for advice

Maureen Scurfield 5 minute read 2:00 AM CDT

DEAR MISS LONELYHEARTS: My ex-mother-in-law and I ran into each other at a political do and had a great old time. I like her much better now than when I was married to her daughter. But she enjoyed mentioning that her daughter is now much happier in her new marriage to someone other than me. That’s rude, but I was actually happy to hear it.

Then she had the nerve to ask me if I felt better-suited to my new wife, and I said, “No, because she’s a lot like your daughter.” That was an awful thing for me to finally realize fully, and in front of my ex-mother-in-law.

Is it true people keep marrying the same type of person over and over again, and just keep trying to do better each time?

— Lying Awake, Tuxedo

Oilers stymie Jets again

Ken Wiebe 6 minute read Preview

Oilers stymie Jets again

Ken Wiebe 6 minute read Yesterday at 10:46 PM CDT

Were this a game that actually counted in the standings, the reaction from Winnipeg Jets head coach Scott Arniel probably wouldn’t have been nearly as composed.

The video evidence suggests the Edmonton Oilers had at least four players on the ice during a line change that turned into a two-on-one rush that finished with Zack Hyman setting up Viljami Marjala for a goal at 1:26 of overtime.

That left the Jets on the receiving end of a 2-1 overtime loss to sit with a pre-season record of 1-1-1.

“It was a pretty good jump,” said Arniel, who was more concerned about the shot from defenceman Dylan Samberg that helped spring the Oilers on the odd-man rush. “I’m not real keen on the slapper missing the net and going all the way down. I’m more concerned about that. It is what it is. Tough one for (Jets goaltender) Dom (DiVincentiis), because he was fantastic.”

Read
Yesterday at 10:46 PM CDT

Trump defends Iran war in address to UN General Assembly

Kelly Geraldine Malone, The Canadian Press 5 minute read Preview

Trump defends Iran war in address to UN General Assembly

Kelly Geraldine Malone, The Canadian Press 5 minute read Updated: Yesterday at 7:31 PM CDT

UNITED NATIONS - U.S. President Donald Trump told the United Nations General Assembly on Tuesday he has a choice to make on Iran: negotiate a deal or "annihilate the Islamic Republic."

In a wide-ranging speech, Trump defended his war on Iran and boasted of American strength, claiming that "while others have talked, I have acted.”

He celebrated the U.S. military operation to oust Venezuelan President Nicolás Maduro earlier this year and a new agreement to expand the American military presence in Greenland, which came after his threats of annexation.

But those actions have upended U.S. relationships with other nations, including traditional allies. Many of those allies have used the United Nations forum to call for a return to international law.

Read
Updated: Yesterday at 7:31 PM CDT