Mark McEwan: How to make the ‘holy grail’ of steaks

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 28/08/2021 (1821 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Every Saturday, Chef Mark McEwan, one of Canada’s most celebrated chefs, serves up everything you need for a special weekend meal, including a recipe and expert at-home cooking tips.

For me, this is the holy grail of steaks: thick, on the bone and aged to perfection. Steak cooked on the bone is always the tastiest and juiciest. With the porterhouse, you get the strip, the filet and the caramelized fat, which is what makes this cut so delicious.

It’s red meat at its finest.

I’ve included two suggested sides, which are easy, tasty and come hot off the grill so you’re making the best of your barbecue. The radicchio adds a bitter element to the meal, but its edge is cut by the sweetness of the vinegar; asparagus is always a welcome addition. The poached eggs help elevate the dish and the Reggiano adds umami flavour. As a starter, I’d suggest oysters with mignonette — and lots of them. It’s always fun to stand around and shuck oysters while the steak is being readied.

Chef tips:

1. Let your steak come to room temperature before grilling, which allows for a more consistent cook throughout.

2. Apply the marinade 20 minutes before grilling. Work it in to the meat, but no big massage is required — and don’t over-marinate.

3. Start the steak on the upper rack and allow the meat temperature to rise slowly. When core temperature reaches about 115 F, place the steak on the grill and develop your crust — this prevents the greying that can take place from too hot a temperature. When a good crust and internal temperature is at 130 F, remove the steak from the grill and let rest for 15 minutes. This will keep the juice in the steak when you cut it and present a perfect medium rare.

Char-Grilled Porterhouse with Grilled Lemon and Roasted Garlic

2 heads garlic

1/4 cup (60 mL) olive oil

Salt and pepper

2 grass-fed P.E.I. Black Angus (or other top-quality) porterhouse steaks (each about 2 lb/1 kg)

2 tbsp (30 mL) rosemary, minced

1 tbsp (15 mL) sage, minced

2 tbsp (30 mL) parsley, minced

1 tbsp (15 mL) garlic, minced

1 lemon, halved crosswise

Fine olive oil

Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). Cut off and discard the top 1/2 inch (1 cm) from each head of garlic. Arrange them at the centre of a sheet of foil. Drizzle lightly with some of the olive oil, season; seal snugly. Roast until tender, about 1 hour. Set aside.

Massage steaks with 1 tbsp (15 mL) of the olive oil and season them very generously with salt and (preferably cracked) pepper. In a small bowl, combine rosemary, parsley, sage and minced garlic with remaining olive oil. Mix well. Rub mixture all over steaks. Set steaks aside on the counter for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat grill on its highest setting. Grill lemon flesh side-down until lightly charred; set aside. Char steaks for about 3 minutes a side, then shift to a more temperate area of the grill until cooked to desired doneness. Remove to a carving board, cover loosely with foil; let rest for 10 minutes. Cut strip loins and tenderloins from their bones. Slice the beef perpendicular to its length into strips about 5 mm thick. Reassemble the steaks around the T-bones on a warm platter. Drizzle lightly with olive oil and serve with roasted garlic and grilled lemon. Serves 4.

Grilled asparagus

2 large bunches green asparagus

2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil

Salt and pepper

2 soft-poached eggs (optional)

2 oz (60 g) Parmigiano-Reggiano, shaved

Fine olive oil

Cracked black pepper

Preheat grill on high. Snap off bottoms of asparagus spears (they will break naturally at the point where they evolve from woody to tender). Blanch asparagus for no more than 45 seconds in boiling salted water; shock them in ice water. Drain and pat dry. Toss in olive oil, season with salt and pepper, toss again. Grill asparagus until lightly charred, about 1 minute per side. Arrange unidirectionally on a warm serving platter. If desired, top with the poached eggs. Cover with Parmesan, sprinkle generously with olive oil, and finish with a scattering of cracked black pepper. Serves 4 to 6.

Grilled radicchio di Treviso with balsamic dressing

9 radicchio di Treviso

2/3 cup (150 mL) olive oil

1/3 cup (75 mL) balsamic vinegar

Salt and pepper

Preheat grill on high. Halve the radicchio lengthwise and transfer to a baking dish. Whisk together the olive oil and balsamic vinegar season to taste. Pour over the radicchio. Marinate on the countertop for 30 minutes, turning once or twice. Transfer the radicchio to the grill, reserving the marinade. Char it lightly on all sides. Transfer it to a warm platter. Whisk the marinade, and then pour 1/4 cup (60 mL) over the radicchio. Season with salt and pepper and serve. Serves 4 to 6.

Chef Mark McEwan is a Toronto-based chef, entrepreneur, mentor and writer of bestselling cookbooks. He is a freelance contributor for the Star. Follow him on Twitter: @chef_MarkMcEwan