The gift of hijab Designer found empowerment behind traditional scarf of modesty By: AV Kitching Posted: 5:10 PM CST Tuesday, Nov. 5, 2024

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This article was published 05/11/2024 (694 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

As a Muslim woman living in Canada, Hafsa Altaf faced countless challenges on multiple fronts when navigating the fashion industry as a woman in a hijab.

Rejected by local trade shows and craft markets and criticized by detractors in the South Asian community who disapproved of her sartorial ambitions, the 27-year-old artist and designer remained undaunted.

Undeterred by naysayers, she relentlessly called and emailed event organizers, determined to convey the values and mission of her label, Fashion by Hafsa.

Facing down the conservatism of her community was an altogether different struggle, but it was also one of the “greatest things” she has ever done, says the Pakistani-born Canadian, who moved to Saskatchewan with her family when she was four.

“One thing I love doing is pushing boundaries. I had to push against cultural norms, I had to leave family and friends behind to pursue this dream,” she says.

“It’s been a journey.”

As a young woman, Altaf was drawn to fashion because it bolstered her confidence.

A great outfit would change the course of her day. And when, at age 12, she chose to wear a hijab, clothes became a tool to help those around her understand she was still the same person.

“The pivotal point for me was when I wore a hijab, because my friends viewed me differently. It was a shift that shocked me. That was the first time I saw those barriers,” she says.

“Modesty has a negative connotation, but for me it empowered me. You have to be really confident when you choose to cover up, when you choose to dress a certain way; you have to be confident to do that.”

Rather than stifling her creativity, the hijab inspired the young fashion lover to experiment with colours and styles. She would often match her shirts to her headwear, eschewing neutral shades for bright yellows, neon greens and luminous pinks.

“You have to be really confident when you choose to cover up.”–Hafsa Altaf

“Instead of wearing long-sleeved white shirts, I started having fun. If I wore a yellow hijab I would wear yellow shirt and yellow shoes. Other people started looking at me and I began helping my other friends who wore hijabs,” she says.

Pursuing a career in fashion was the obvious choice. Battling through cultural resistance, she moved from Saskatoon to Winnipeg to attend MC College, where she learned the fundamentals of fashion design, production, development and business.

She interned at a local fashion house before taking on a designing role with them, launching her own label 2-1/2 years ago.

Altaf continues to juggle both roles, although she admits it’s tougher to do both as she looks to expand her own line.

Released in smaller capsule collections throughout the year, rather than at conventional autumn/winter and spring/summer biannual shows, her pieces are more than just clothing — they are about her art and the stories she tells.

“It was a big deal for me as a Muslim woman to leave my community. It’s uncommon in my culture. But I am passionate about this… I am strong about equality; I want women to do what they want to do in life and I show that through my modest fashion line.”

The concept of modesty — a key virtue in Islam — is often viewed in the West as a tool of oppression rather than a progressive act, but Altaf is determined to change this narrative without losing the essence and meaning of the practice.

“Education is key here, just like anything else,” she says. “Islam is a beautiful religion and so important to me. It has helped me in so many ways in my life. My brand is modest fashion but when you look at it, you won’t know.

“Modest fashion is just clothing that covers the body. I follow a relaxed fit, have higher necklines and longer sleeves.

“However my art, the attitude, the vibe, changes the whole game — women are able to find their style and practise modesty but not traditionally, and that is very important to me and to where the brand is going.”

Marrying religion with fashion makes good business sense.

The modest-fashion market is a big one — valued at US$295 billion in 2022 — and demand continues to grow with the global modest-fashion market projected to reach $375 billion by 2025.

Younger, more fashion-forward Muslim consumers in the Middle East, Southeast Asia and South Asia are moving towards edgier, more modern interpretations of conservative dressing.

But Altaf’s clothes are not limited to just Muslims.

While a significant portion of her customer base consists of young Muslim women, the designer’s creations cater to a clientele beyond this demographic.

“The art captures the imagination; the modesty is secondary,” she says.

“My art resonates with women because when I tell my story, I am telling other women to take charge and follow their dreams.”

Altaf’s pieces, with their oversized silhouettes, architectural nods and avant-garde prints painted straight onto fabric by the designer, are reminiscent of Rei Kawakubo’s forward-thinking Parisian label Comme des Garçons.

She prefers to paint on canvas or twill, although denim, cotton and bamboo jersey are also all given the same treatment.

Skirts with snap fronts feature hand-painted, colour blocked panels, T-shirts are adorned painted birds, and denim jackets highlight sections of female faces.

Previous collections featured voluminous shirts in neon green with matching headscarves, floaty robes and patchwork one-shoulder crop tops, made from smaller cuts of fabric destined for the landfill, all which are designed to be worn as they or layered atop shirts, skirts or jeans.

She styles her pieces, helping customers see the countless ways her items can be worn, and has also won over the critics in her community by showing them that modesty doesn’t have to always be traditional.

“Whenever someone wants to start something different, people tend to have negative reactions to it. I did face that and it was very hard, but now, the more education I am doing, opinions are changing and people in my community are seeing the positive impact of my fashion.”

Her label has evolved as she’s grown, but the stories she tells have remained consistent.

Altaf wants to inspire others — and reinforce to the world that clothes, modest or otherwise, do not have to limit you.

“What I love is when I am able to help young girls, when they resonate with my message and my brand,” she says.

“I am a Muslim woman. I am a normal person, no matter what I am wearing. I can still do the same things.”

av.kitching@freepress.mb.ca