Black dandyism etches place into Met Gala history – and global visibility

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This article was published 01/05/2025 (524 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

LOS ANGELES (AP) — Black dandyism is taking center stage at the Met Gala, with cultural powerhouses leading this subversive, sharply tailored style into the global fashion spotlight.

As a gala host committee member, Janelle Monáe and other trendsetters are helping shape the conversation, framing Black dandyism as a proud tradition — rather than a mere trend — claiming its long-overdue moment of visibility.

“It’s always important to educate and reeducate to the world as much as we possibly can through art and through our greatness,” said Monáe, the Grammy-nominated performer who had made dandy style a signature of her fashion.

Monáe, inspired by family members who proudly sported the look throughout her upbringing, views the spotlight as an opportunity to pay homage to the past and inspire the future.

“Dandyism is pretty much a part of my fashion DNA through tailoring and suiting,” the singer-actor said. “I’ve honored my ancestors and my family who wore their uniforms, wore their suits to serve our community. It fell right in line with who I am, and the people I want to bring with me that helped build this country.”

On Monday, with the world watching, a wave of fashion disruptors and stylists will usher Black dandyism from the margins to the Met Gala, as the Metropolitan Museum of Art unveils its new costume exhibit, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.” It marks the Met’s first show centered exclusively on Black designers and the first in more than two decades to spotlight menswear. It’s also a tribute to the rich legacy of dandyism, a style that has long carved space for radical self-expression, especially for those overlooked or misunderstood.

“It’s been a long time coming,” said Kyle Smith, the NFL’s first-ever fashion editor, who has styled the league’s top players, including Cincinnati Bengals quarterback Joe Burrow, Los Angeles Rams wideout Puka Nacua and receiver Kenny Stills.

“It’s great to see the recognition that Black culture is having or has in fashion for years,” Smith said. “It’s been there and very subtle, or just not recognized. I think this year’s theme is long overdue. I’m excited to see everybody’s outfits and how they interact with the idea of Black dandyism.”

Pillars of Black dandyism

This year’s Met Gala co-chairs include Pharrell Williams, Lewis Hamilton, Colman Domingo, A$AP Rocky and honorary chair LeBron James, with Monáe joining the host committee alongside the likes of Simone Biles, Spike Lee, Ayo Edebiri and André 3000.

“I think honoring minorities, honoring Black and brown people in these spaces and outside every day, is important,” said Monáe, who plans to use the red carpet to debut an exclusive collaboration with 1800 Tequila. “The ones who have dedicated their lives to this country to serve, build and give us art to sustain us for a lifetime. We should continue to honor them and push forward and stand on their shoulders.”

Several trailblazers helped popularize Black dandyism, a style whose roots trace back to the trans-Atlantic slave trade. From the beginning, dandyism served as a sartorial declaration, reclaiming elegance and luxury as tools of empowerment, challenging stereotypes and honoring Black legacy.

This Met Gala moment stands on the shoulders of icons like Frederick Douglass, who wielded sharp dress as a form of power, and Duke Ellington, who transformed suiting into cultural brilliance.

Host committee member Dapper Dan reimagined Harlem fashion, remixing luxury into bold statements of Black pride, while the late André Leon Talley — with his capes and commanding presence — redefined fashion authority.

Today’s Black dandies carry that legacy forward, blending tradition and rebellion in every lapel for a style that speaks volumes before a word is ever spoken.

“We are the walking versions that they imagined,” said El Lewis, an Atlanta-based stylist, who has worked with several entertainers including Usher, Young Thug, Chloe and Halle Bailey, and Justin Skye. “A lot of these people died not being able to have these realities come to fruition. We have a lot of autonomy to ourselves, and I think that’s what they were probably seeking. They wanted to be able to do anything at any moment at any time. And I think that’s what they get to see us do.”

Met Gala pushes dandyism forward

Stylist Brian Robinson said that if Talley were alive, he would have left an unforgettable mark on the gala’s defining looks.

“He would definitely be behind conversation pieces underneath the restraint to educate,” Robinson said of Talley, the influential former creative director and editor at large at Vogue magazine. He died at the age of 73 in 2022.

“He would have been able to put dandyism in a positive light for people to understand the importance of being able to celebrate and highlight our culture,” said Robinson, who has worked with Keyshia Cole and Naturi Naughton. “He would push for the understanding of the agricultural aesthetic of style, being able to understand how it highlights not only your personality, but how it can also make you feel good as a person.”

Smith hopes the Met Gala inspires people to embrace the joy of dressing up, because that’s the heart of dandyism. He’s eager to see that spirit reflected both on the streets and in the player tunnels at professional games.

“I want to see it more in our tunnel fits in the NFL,” he said. “Take some fashion tips from the Met. Look at what everybody’s wearing and how they’re exploring fashion. I want to see how everybody expresses themselves and how they leave their mark in the fashion world.”

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For more coverage of the Met Gala, visit https://apnews.com/hub/met-gala.