A selection of sippable wines for the in-between season

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 20/04/2024 (890 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

In Manitoba, Mother Nature loves to foil the best-laid plans.

One random example: Little Brown Jug (336 William Ave.) had planned on launching some summer brews on its patio this weekend at an event called Summer Lager Patio Bash. It has pushed that back to April 26 and 27 as a result of the current not-so-summery temps.

Similarly, six days ago I sat on a downtown patio with a lovely beverage in hand, the glorious weather prompting me to consider writing a rosé roundup for this week’s Uncorked.

But as I sit here looking out the window at a thin blanket of snow and the wind howling, I’m just not feeling the urge to drink pink — yet.

Instead, for your consideration, here are a half-dozen wines tasted recently…

The Toso Estate 2022 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoza, Argentina — around $19, private wine stores) is pale gold in colour, offering fresh green apple, lemon-lime and chalky notes on the nose, with just the slightest hint of bell/jalapeño pepper. It’s dry, light-bodied and crisp, with racy acidity bolstering lemon-lime, green apple and grapefruit flavours, a steely secondary mineral note running throughout and, to its benefit, virtually none of that green pepper component coming through flavour-wise. Easy-drinking and quite delicious for the price, and available at most private wine stores. 4/5

An organic Italian white, the Feudo Antico 2022 Pecorino (Terre di Chieti, Italy — $19.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) is pale straw in colour, bringing red apple skin, pear, chalk, melon rind and peach notes that show notes well on the nose. It’s dry and light-plus bodied, with apple, pear and peach flavours coming with slightly chalky and almost oxidative note, giving the fruit a slightly baked and nutty component. However, the acidity and slight saline note work well on the finish, and the 13 per cent alcohol is unobtrusive — try with soft cheeses, salads, mild fish dishes or a creamy pasta. 4/5

While the Closson Chase 2019 The Brock Chardonnay (Niagara River, Ont. — $20, Liquor Marts and beyond) is made by a winery in Ontario’s Prince Edward County and the fruit comes from the Niagara River sub-region of the Niagara Peninsula. It’s medium gold in colour and aromatically brings spiced apple, peach, bread dough, lemon candy and herbal aromas that are quite appealing. It’s dry, light-plus bodied and viscous, with the apple, peach, pear and lemon flavours showing well with a chalky note, subtle hints of wood (half of the wine is aged in neutral barrels, the other half in stainless steel) and a medium-length finish (it’s 13 per cent alcohol). Its older vintage helps it bring Old World, Burgundian charm with decent New World ripeness — drink now. 4/5

On the red wine side of things, the Neleman Organic Vineyard 2022 Nucli Tinto (Valencia, Spain — around $19, private wine stores) is a vegan Spanish red blend of organic Tempranillo and Bobal grapes which offers cocoa and raspberry aromas front and centre, with white pepper, plum, mocha and black licorice notes in there as well. It’s medium-plus bodied and plush, with plenty of cocoa and mocha notes accompanying ripe raspberry and plum flavours, hints of black licorice and soft, dusty tannins on the finish. 3/5

The Banfi 2019 Aska Rosso (Bolgheri, Italy — $28.99, Liquor Marts and beyond), an Italian red from the home of “super Tuscan” wines, is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with a splash of Cabernet Franc. Deep cassis and blackberry notes show well aromatically, with white pepper, tar and plum notes coming through as well. It’s dry, full-bodied and rich, with the dark berry and cassis notes joined by hints of bell pepper, white pepper, cocoa and spice. A touch of smoke lingers in the background as the grippy tannins kick in before the long, warm finish (it’s 14 per cent alcohol). Drinking well now, but could be cellared for three to five more years. 4/5

The Bread & Butter 2020 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley, Calif. — $59.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) is a big step up price-wise from the $24 white-labelled Cab, but also a huge leap in quality as well. It’s deep purplish cherry in colour and aromatically offers deep aromas of cassis, leather, plum, blackberry and cedar as well as hints of baking spice and pepper. It’s dry, full-bodied and chewy, with dense dark fruit delivered with notable but not overpowering oak (from 14 months in French barrels), lovely secondary spice and black tea notes, chewy, grippy tannins and a long, slightly warm finish (it’s 14.5 per cent alcohol). Drink this stellar Napa Valley red now after letting it open up for a bit in the glass, or set it aside for four to seven years to see how it evolves. 4.5/5

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