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Sumo, vintage suds and the Swallows

Don’t miss these must-see spots, experiences on next Tokyo trip

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You can spend a lifetime in Tokyo and still not experience everything the city has to offer.

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You can spend a lifetime in Tokyo and still not experience everything the city has to offer.

That’s what makes Japan’s bustling capital so captivating. It’s also what makes it so overwhelming if you’ve never been before.

If you’re fortunate enough to be going in the near future, here are five things you might not know that could help you squeeze everything out of your Tokyo trip.

Sumo wrestling

With it being their national sport, there must be events every week, right?

Wrong.

Believe it or not, but there are only six tournaments held per year. Three take place in Tokyo (January, May and September), and there’s one each in Osaka (March), Nagoya (July) and Fukuoka (November).

Taylor Allen and Janelle Yarjau take in the Grand Sumo Tournament in May at the Ryogoku Kokugikan Sumo Hall, in Tokyo.

Taylor Allen and Janelle Yarjau take in the Grand Sumo Tournament in May at the Ryogoku Kokugikan Sumo Hall, in Tokyo.

A tournament lasts 15 days, with matches starting as early as 8:30 a.m. and wrapping up around 6 p.m. The highest-ranked divisions battle it out in the afternoon, which is when most spectators show up.

If watching sumo is on your bucket list — and it should be because it’s a phenomenal experience — you need to plan well in advance since the demand for tickets has never been higher.

Tickets typically go on sale a month before an event, but as a foreigner, you will have to go through a ticket-buying service like BuySumoTickets.com or a tour company such as Viator.

My partner and I attended the May tournament and put a deposit down on tickets through BST back in February. They started taking pre-orders on Jan. 15 and by mid-February, they had to stop because they couldn’t keep up.

Fortunately for us, we were extremely flexible with our dates and willing to sit anywhere, so we ended up with a four-seat box — which is Japanese-style seating with four small cushions on the ground — about 15 rows up for just under $500 including fees because another customer cancelled their order. If sitting cross-legged without back support isn’t your thing, there is also western-style seating in the balcony area.

The bad news is it’s only getting tougher to secure tickets. The most recent Tokyo tournament was in September, and those tickets sold out even faster. Even locals are having a hard time catching sumo live.

Going through a tour company might be a safer bet, but the downside is the prices are heavily inflated and most only allow you to watch bouts for the final three hours, whereas going through BST allowed us to get into the venue earlier.

Don’t leave it to the last minute. With a little luck, you can witness one of the best sporting events in the world.

Sankaku Chitai

Shinjuku Golden Gai is an extremely popular nightlife area for tourists.

Get off the beaten path and go for drinks in Sankaku Chitai. It hasn’t changed much since it housed a black market after the Second World War, so it’s like bar-hopping back in time.

Get off the beaten path and go for drinks in Sankaku Chitai. It hasn’t changed much since it housed a black market after the Second World War, so it’s like bar-hopping back in time.

There are over 200 bars/eateries with all different types of themes crammed into six narrow alleyways, and most of them can’t even seat a dozen people — which is a part of the area’s charm.

If you can get a seat somewhere, you’ll likely make friends from all over the world while sipping on Asahi. But if you want to go where the locals go, and feel a similar vibe, consider Sakaku Chitai. It consists of a handful of drinking alleys lined with neon signs and graffiti, but it’s off the beaten path and has a raw, edgier feel to it. It also comes with some interesting history as the area used to host a black market after the Second World War and it has not undergone major redevelopment since then, so you feel like you’re bar-hopping back in time.

Similar to Golden Gai, seating is limited so you’d be wise to go in a smaller group.

Yakult Swallows

You’ve likely heard of the Yomiuri (Tokyo) Giants. They’re considered the New York Yankees of Nippon Professional Baseball for their historic dominance, widespread popularity and big-spending ways. Plus, they play out of the legendary Tokyo Dome, a fitting stage for Japan’s most prominent team.

But don’t forget about the other team in town: the Yakult Swallows. Their home field, Meiji Jingu Stadium, was built in 1926 and is one of the few remaining professional ballparks where Babe Ruth once played (an exhibition game in 1934).

photos by Taylor Allen / Free Press
                                The Yakult Swallows play out of one of the oldest professional baseball stadiums in the world. Their passionate fanbase celebrates with umbrellas whenever the home team scores.

photos by Taylor Allen / Free Press

The Yakult Swallows play out of one of the oldest professional baseball stadiums in the world. Their passionate fanbase celebrates with umbrellas whenever the home team scores.

The Swallows, basically the New York Mets of Japan, have a scrappier, working-class charm that resonates with everyday Tokyoites. Their fans bring it on game day by famously singing and dancing with umbrellas every time the Swallows score.

In general, Japanese baseball games are something else. There is synchronized, constant cheering from the first pitch to the final out, and you don’t need to be a diehard follower of the sport to appreciate it.

Unfortunately, Meiji Jingu’s days are numbered as plans are in place to tear down the historic venue. While a demolition date still has yet to be determined, the clock is ticking if you want to see an important piece of baseball history.

Primo pizza

Everyone knows a trip to Tokyo isn’t complete without ramen, sushi and tonkatsu.

But did you know that Tokyo is also one of the best pizza cities on the planet with incredible Neopolitan-inspired pies? In fact, the city, surprisingly, has as many recognized world-class pizzerias as Naples and Rome.

Taylor Allen / Free Press
                                The pies at Pizza Studio Tamaki are known as some of the best Tokyo has to offer.

Taylor Allen / Free Press

The pies at Pizza Studio Tamaki are known as some of the best Tokyo has to offer.

That’s because authentic brick ovens are a common sight and many Japanese pizzaiolos spend years honing their skills in Italy.

It doesn’t feel right to recommend just one place, but Pizza Studio Tamaki is hard to beat. They import their tomatoes, cheeses and oils from Italy, and they fire their pizzas with specific Japanese wood that is ideal for cooking. Their light, airy and chewy dough with bubbled, fire-seared crusts are a perfect balance of smoky and salty, and they source key ingredients like garlic and basil from local farmers.

They’ve gotten so popular a location opened up in Singapore and they fly in the ingredients from Japan to ensure the same quality.

When you need a break from noodles and rice, go reset your palate with a few slices.

e-Earphone

If you’re an audio enthusiast, you’ll feel like a kid in a candy shop at e-Earphone in Akihabara.

With six floors, over 2,000 earphones/headphones in stock and every audio accessory you can think of, you can easily spend hours here testing out products from all over the world.

To get the best bang for your buck, head up to the fifth floor to find refurbished headphones. On a good day, you can get high-quality brands like Bose for several hundred dollars off the retail price.

It’s one of the most thorough audio stores you’ll find anywhere, and the staff know their stuff.

If you’re looking to upgrade on your current pair, this store is a must-visit.

SUPPLIED
                                You can get a room at One@Tokyo by insomnia for less than $200 a night, which is a bargain considering everything the property has to offer.

SUPPLIED

You can get a room at One@Tokyo by insomnia for less than $200 a night, which is a bargain considering everything the property has to offer.

(Taylor Allen was provided two complimentary nights’ stay by hotel One@Tokyo by insomnia in a standard semi-double room.)

winnipegfreepress.com/taylorallen

Taylor Allen

Taylor Allen
Reporter

Taylor Allen is a sports reporter for the Winnipeg Free Press. Taylor was the Vince Leah intern in the Free Press newsroom twice while earning his joint communications degree/diploma at the University of Winnipeg and Red River College Polytechnic. He signed on full-time in 2019 and mainly covers the Blue Bombers, curling, and basketball. Read more about Taylor.

Every piece of reporting Taylor produces is reviewed by an editing team before it is posted online or published in print — part of the Free Press‘s tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press’s history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates.

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