After helping the US win the Cold War, the all-you-can-eat buffet is fading. Thanks, COVID

Advertisement

Advertise with us

LAS VEGAS (AP) — On a cool fall evening after the end of World War II, Las Vegas watched “officialdom and ‘cafe society’ turn out for the opening of America’s first all-you-can-eat buffet,” a local paper wrote.

Read this article for free:


or

Already have an account? Log in here »

To continue reading, please subscribe:

Subscribe and receive a limited-edition Free Press branded hat or tote.

Digital Subscription

One year of digital access for only $205*

  • Enjoy unlimited reading on winnipegfreepress.com
  • Read the E-Edition, our digital replica newspaper
  • Access News Break, our award-winning app
  • Play interactive puzzles

*First annual payment billed as $205.00 + GST for one year. This annual subscription will automatically renew at $233.00 + GST every 52 weeks (10% off the regular annual price of $259.35). Offer available to new and qualified returning subscribers only. Cancel any time.

To continue reading, please subscribe:

Add Free Press access to your Brandon Sun subscription for only an additional

$1 for the first 4 weeks*

  • Enjoy unlimited reading on winnipegfreepress.com
  • Read the E-Edition, our digital replica newspaper
  • Access News Break, our award-winning app
  • Play interactive puzzles
Start now

*Your next Brandon Sun subscription payment will increase by $1.00 and you will be charged $17.95 plus GST for four weeks. After four weeks, your payment will increase to $24.95 plus GST every four weeks.

LAS VEGAS (AP) — On a cool fall evening after the end of World War II, Las Vegas watched “officialdom and ‘cafe society’ turn out for the opening of America’s first all-you-can-eat buffet,” a local paper wrote.

It was a big night in a small town that dreamed of hungry visitors. The glazed ham and prime rib in the El Rancho Vegas were signs that American food was changing.

The space race and arms race made Cold War headlines. The farms race was as important. Genetics, chemicals, and motorized equipment nearly tripled U.S. farm production between 1948 and 2017.

FILE - A person serves lobster tails at the A.Y.C.E Buffet in the Palms resort-casino Wednesday, Jan. 28, 2026, in Las Vegas. (AP Photo/John Locher, File)
FILE - A person serves lobster tails at the A.Y.C.E Buffet in the Palms resort-casino Wednesday, Jan. 28, 2026, in Las Vegas. (AP Photo/John Locher, File)

What to do with all that food?

The beginning

At least three Vegas legends claimed inventing the all-you-can-eat buffet. The best-known tale says promoter Herb McDonald put cheese and cold cuts on a bar one night. “Gamblers walking by said they were hungry, and the buffet was born,” read McDonald’s 2002 obituary.

Other casinos opened buffets for eating in between gambling, says Michael Green, a history professor at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas.

For one lump sum, people carried a plate past salads, meats, pastas and seafood, trying a bit of everything before going back for more. (That last part’s important.)

As the all-you-can-eat buffet became a hit, its origin story was disputed. Stories attributing the buffet to the El Rancho are dismissed by Vegas historian Jeffrey Carlson.

“It couldn’t have been that simple,” he says, citing another version that attributes it to the mob that helped found Las Vegas.

In “Neon Metropolis: How Las Vegas Started the Twenty-First Century,” Hal K. Rothman pins the buffet on mobster Davie Berman, who moved from Iowa in 1944 as Jewish gangsters snatched up local hotels and casinos.

Berman hired a chef to feed gamblers who laid lox, whitefish, herring and other Jewish brunch delicacies on a long table. “A Las Vegas tradition, the buffet, was born,” Rothman wrote.

The end?

However it all started, all-you-can-eat buffets spread across the republic to restaurants like Golden Corral and Ponderosa. Then they started losing out to casual dining outlets like Olive Garden or Chili’s, food industry expert Darren Tristano says.

Then, in 2020, COVID-19 dealt a blow that persists to this day. Suddenly, piles of food sitting out for everyone to grab weren’t quite as appealing.

Longtime Las Vegas food journalist Al Mancini, though, says buffets will always have a place there.

“There’s a visceral reaction to just loading up that tray,” he says. “People still love that, and I think they always will.”

___

Weissenstein contributed from New York. This story is part of a recurring series, “ American Objects,” marking the 250th anniversary of the United States. For more stories on the anniversary, click here.

Report Error Submit a Tip

More Stories

After helping the US win the Cold War, the all-you-can-eat buffet is fading. Thanks, COVID

Jessica Hill And Michael Weissenstein, The Associated Press 3 minute read Preview

After helping the US win the Cold War, the all-you-can-eat buffet is fading. Thanks, COVID

Jessica Hill And Michael Weissenstein, The Associated Press 3 minute read Tuesday, Jun. 30, 2026

LAS VEGAS (AP) — On a cool fall evening after the end of World War II, Las Vegas watched “officialdom and ‘cafe society’ turn out for the opening of America’s first all-you-can-eat buffet,” a local paper wrote.

It was a big night in a small town that dreamed of hungry visitors. The glazed ham and prime rib in the El Rancho Vegas were signs that American food was changing.

The space race and arms race made Cold War headlines. The farms race was as important. Genetics, chemicals, and motorized equipment nearly tripled U.S. farm production between 1948 and 2017.

What to do with all that food?

Read
Tuesday, Jun. 30, 2026

This week’s silly geopolitical spat

Gwynne Dyer 4 minute read 2:01 AM CDT

“I would not like to call this an incident. Let’s say it’s a diplomatic misunderstanding,” said Ukrainian Foreign Affairs Minister Andrii Sybiha. But the South Korean president definitely sees it as a serious incident, and he has already gone public with it.

“If (Ukraine’s) refusal to acknowledge the facts and issue a public apology continues, we will take additional measures,” President Lee Jae-myung wrote on X. He probably means cutting the non-military aid South Korea gives to Ukraine. (There is no military aid, since the constitution bans Seoul from providing arms to a country actively involved in a war).

What monstrous misdeed did the Ukrainian government commit to deserve such harsh words from a country that is generally sympathetic to Ukraine’s struggle against its giant neighbour? Have the South Koreans discovered Ukrainian spies in the Blue House?

No, it’s what we professionals call a “spat.”

Alzheimer’s has sent my mother back in time

Pam Frampton 5 minute read Preview

Alzheimer’s has sent my mother back in time

Pam Frampton 5 minute read 2:01 AM CDT

My mother does a lot of time-travelling — time-shifting, the Alzheimer’s Society calls it.

Read
2:01 AM CDT

AI governance: Canada’s next structural test

Anne Thompson 4 minute read 2:00 AM CDT

Artificial intelligence is accelerating faster than the governance structures meant to contain it. Canada now faces a structural test — whether our institutions can protect autonomy, dignity, and continuity in an era when decision-making is increasingly mediated by systems we did not design, cannot fully audit, and do not yet constitutionally constrain.

This is not a technological problem. It is a governance problem.

AI systems influence how information flows, how institutions behave, and how decisions are made. They shape the conditions under which harm becomes predictable. They amplify both the strengths and weaknesses of the systems into which they are deployed. And they do all of this at a scale and speed that outpaces traditional regulatory tools.

Canada’s current approach to AI governance relies heavily on policy, guidelines, and sector-specific regulation. These are important, but they are not sufficient. What is missing is structural clarity — a constitutional-grade framework that defines authority, responsibility, accountability, and the minimum conditions under which AI systems may operate without undermining human dignity or institutional credibility.

Don’t let pyjama jibes sour your bedtime bond

Maureen Scurfield 5 minute read 2:01 AM CDT

DEAR MISS LONELYHEARTS: I got married in August and my new husband just bought himself old-man striped flannel pyjamas to wear to bed now that it’s getting colder out. He didn’t do this before we were married. What a turn-off. Should I buy him a nightcap as well?

He used to be a sexy guy who just dumped his clothes on the chair beside the bed and jumped in naked.

But last night I watched him come out of the bathroom in a ratty old robe. I thought, “He looks like my grandfather, not my husband.”

I called out sarcastically, “Hey, gramps, are you lost?” and he said, “Not anymore.” Then he walked into the spare bedroom and slept there all night without me. Help.

Province takes aim at ER wait times by adding community-care capacity to free up hospital beds

Chris Kitching 5 minute read Preview

Province takes aim at ER wait times by adding community-care capacity to free up hospital beds

Chris Kitching 5 minute read Yesterday at 6:30 PM CDT

The province is aiming to free up hospital beds and cut wait times by adding 103 community-based care spaces in Winnipeg for patients who need shelter or specialized supports in order to be discharged.

Read
Yesterday at 6:30 PM CDT