About Marion Warhaft:

Marion Warhaft is the Free Press food critic.

• Asian Idol worthy of worship

  THOSE who don't keep track of the restaurant scene and turn up at the above address expecting to eat at Oceana will be in for a big surprise. Oceana is long gone, replaced by Idol Asian Cuisine, with a decor that is also totally different. Serene and understated, exemplifying a less-is­more philosophy, the walls of this long, windowless room are done in the palest of celadons, with even paler blue on the faux windows and the blond­est of wood trim. The only occasional spots of bright colour come from a few of the track lights.

  View Full Column | 20/11/2009 7:47 AM | 0

• A sausage party and some Yiddish comfort

  Cured meats are like salted peanuts to me -- once I start eating them I have trouble stopping, which is why one part of me was dreading the visit to Sausage Makers Deli. The other part of me, however, couldn't wait to get there. For months I'd been clipping their ads from my neighbourhood weekly, with new and tantalizing temptations featured every week, challenging me to buy more than could possibly be good for me. But finally I took the plunge and drove out to just past the Nairn overpass, where the huge cow on the roof makes this house of treasures hard to miss.

  View Full Column | 13/11/2009 1:00 AM | 1

• Who says brunch is a Sunday-only thing?

  I love brunch, but I also love long, leisurely Sunday mornings at home, when I can indulge in my personal addiction, i.e. a bunch of crossword puzzles, especially the big New York Times puzzle, which I now save from Saturday's Free Press to do on Sunday. But brunch doesn't have to mean Sunday, especially the kind of brunches I have in mind, the kind where I don't have to do any work at all. Like standing in line, for instance, although I'm always ready to make an exception for the Fort Garry's sumptuous spread. No, real luxury for me is sitting down and staying put, while somebody else does all the fetching and carrying, and there are such brunches to be had on days other than Sunday.

  View Full Column | 6/11/2009 1:00 AM | 3

• Good looks will take you only so far

  Some come for the food. Some come for the bustling bar scene. And some come to ogle the pretty waitresses. Me? I came for the pumpkin pie, one of the pie loves of my life. I suppose it may appear on other menus at this time of year, but it if does I haven't found it, and although it isn't on Earl's permanent menu, it is a current special -- moist and seductive, with a crisp crust and spiced with just the right amount of cinnamon. My only quibble would be that I prefer mine warm instead of icy ($5). Well, actually, I had come for some other things as well. With memories dancing in my head of "a thick, tender pillow of rich beefy flavour" (to quote myself from six years ago) I was looking forward to another go at the 10-oz. New York strip loin. But memory was a not-so-sweet cheat. Although perfectly cooked and as rare as ordered, the steak I got this time was unchewably tough and sinewy throughout. It was impervious to the ordinary table knife provided, and even the steak knife I had to ask for couldn't make much more of a dent ($26).

  View Full Column | 30/10/2009 1:00 AM | 13

• Vietnamese value and Asian fast food

  Two gilded laughing Buddhas face the entrance, flanked by a little shrine and a bamboo plant, a welcome suggestion of more space within than there actually is. There's seating for a mere 30, and the menu is tiny as well. Not only are its 80 items significantly fewer than those on most other Vietnamese menus, but a large proportion of those items aren't available. Tu Moi's menu, it turns out, is a holdover from the previous owner -- or, possibly, owners, since this place has had more turnovers than I can keep track of.

  View Full Column | 23/10/2009 1:00 AM | 0

• New park eatery flexes its mussels

  The distance from parking lot to restaurant isn't daunting in itself, but it is long enough to be a challenge for women in high heels, or in such temperatures as 30 degrees, either plus or minus. The payoff will be worth it, in part because of Terrace Fifty-Five's serene, sylvan setting -- an elegantly understated room, with walls and ceiling almost entirely of glass. The views of the park are glorious, especially from the tables that overlook the terrace and pool -- a scene evocative of a world more gracious than the one most of us inhabit. The decor must have been freshened up since Tavern in the Park left this atmospheric old pavilion, but only those with sharp memories will notice any changes. On the plus side, a seemingly reduced noise level, and (no minor matter) particularly comfortable chairs; on the minus side, some heavy-looking curved leather booths, which to my eye are a dark intrusion in the airy lightness of the room. A minor point that most diners won't care about since the other part of the payoff is the food.

  View Full Column | 16/10/2009 1:00 AM | 2

• Change brewing at only local tea room

  When I wrote in last week's column about foods with only a single local source I'd forgotten about Two A Tea, our one and only tea room. I'd reviewed it about a year and a half ago, in response to a reader who'd asked for a tea room recommendation, and I'm writing about it again now -- much sooner than I'd intended to -- because another reader informed me that there was a For Sale sign outside the building. She was concerned that the tea room was going to close, as in fact it will, but not until the building is sold. The reason? Not lack of business, apparently, but lack of stamina -- the owner is tired. Still, it hasn't been sold yet, and I've been told that it will remain open at least until Christmas, possibly a little longer, so those who are interested in having afternoon tea had better get it in soon.

  View Full Column | 9/10/2009 1:00 AM | 0

• Dishin' on some fab Winnipeg dishes

  No matter how often I eat out -- and I eat out a lot -- there are certain foods I can never have. I wish, for instance, that we had a raw shellfish bar, and I'm still waiting for the arrival of such crazes as Brazilian skewered meats or pressed Cuban sandwiches. On the other hand I'm grateful that I don't have to deal with molecular gastronomy (I was always a dunce at science -- any science). Otherwise, though, there isn't much that isn't available here, and when asked to name a favourite restaurant I can't -- it might depend on my mood of the moment, and so many good ones spring to mind. Dozens of Asian restaurants, for instance, as well as several Italian and, increasingly, French choices, not to mention that catch-all category called eclectic or global cooking.

  View Full Column | 2/10/2009 1:00 AM | 4

• Thai a ribbon around delicious St. Vital gift

  ‘So, what do you think?,” I asked my Asian maven, who was visiting from his home in Thailand, and with whom I had shared the many dishes that covered our table. And his answer was yes, the food was the real deal, that it had the textural contrasts, the clean, fresh flavours and the vibrant combinations of spices that typify genuine Thai cooking.

  View Full Column | 25/09/2009 1:00 AM | 4

• No samosas, but you won't miss them a bit

  IF you're craving curry on Keewatin, keep your eyes peeled for the big Dairy Queen sign, the one just south of Inkster Boulevard. No, DQ hasn't suddenly gone multicultural, but -- since the addresses on Keewatin are as obscure as those on Pembina -- it will help you find Samosa Crown, which is located in the mall behind it. It's worth the hunt though, even if, oddly enough, not for the namesake samosas, which appear neither on the menu, nor on the buffet. With good rea­son, possibly -- they are available for the asking, but the ones we asked for had crusts that were thick and tough, and fillings that were flavourless. No, there are other attractions at this ap­pealing little place, which is simply but attractively decorated, with one wall of knotty pine, another painted pale olive green, and subdued lighting through­out.

  View Full Column | 18/09/2009 7:18 AM | 3

• Once you find it, you'll never forget it

  If only all the Chinese restaurants on Pembina Highway were clustered closer together, we might have a vibrant second Chinatown -- one where the many restaurants that line the highway were within walking distance of each other, possibly with a few interesting Asian grocery stores thrown in. Ah well, an idle dream, I know, since even if they were all near each other, Pembina is hardly pedestrian-friendly, and we just have to be grateful that all those good restaurants do exist.

  View Full Column | 4/09/2009 1:00 AM | 0

• Russian or Jewish, they're deli-cious

  When was the last time you bought pickles from a tub? Ever? Well, now you can, and they are big, crunchy and delicious, with the half-sour flavour of cukes that haven't been brined very long. You'll find them at the Russian Deli, a seemingly tiny place next to what once was Harman's drugstore. But there's more here than meets the eye from out front since it stretches into a sizable L-shaped area in the rear. That's where the shelves are stocked with innumerable jars and cans of East European goods, but they weren't what I had come for. No, what drew me were the freezers packed with several house-made preparations -- Russian-style, or (as the server called them, despite the name of the deli) Ukrainian. On the other hand, I wasn't quite sure what I had truly understood during our conversation.

  View Full Column | 28/08/2009 1:00 AM | 6

• Popular Osborne spot a mixed bag

  We had agreed to meet at 11:30 a.m. for a meal that was to be part lunch, part brunch, but my friend -- who has been here before -- phones back to say that we should probably make it 11 a.m. The place is always packed early, she says, and after a few visits I find that she was right. On the other hand, the Oakwood does take reservations, and it's obviously a good idea for those who don't plan to lunch at 11 a.m. or dine at 4:30 p.m. It's a snug and attractive little place, with forest green the predominant colour, and a few fresh flowers on each table. It's hard to pin a label on it, but I suppose neighbourhood family restaurant would cover it. The all-day menu is one of those something-for-everyone affairs, offering straightforward renditions of traditional dishes.

  View Full Column | 21/08/2009 1:00 AM | 3

• California dreamin' on Academy Road

  Arecurring question in my email asks, whatever happened to Enorae? I don't have the answer. I just don't know why that seemingly successful little restaurant vanished, and neither, apparently, did whoever answered the phone at Sushi California, the new tenants at that location. Coincidentally, there always were a few Japanese influences on Enorae's cuisine. Today's menu, though, is almost totally Japanese, with only a few Korean exceptions -- not surprisingly since the owners are also Korean.

  View Full Column | 31/07/2009 1:00 AM | 3

• Two great new restaurants? Hot diggety dog!

  It shouldn't be possible to get lost while heading for the St. Norbert Arts Centre, in the ruins of the old Trappist monastery -- it's a simple right turn from Pembina, just before the bridge in St. Norbert, onto rue des Trappistes, which leads to it -- but somehow I manage to do so, at least once every three years, which seems to be the lifespan of the restaurants there. The confusion stems from the fact that rue du Monastère (a cul de sac) comes first, after which rue des Trappists turns into a gravel road that seems to be leading into the land of nowhere, with no visible habitation on either side. However if you're alert you'll see a small sign directing you to the rue des Ruines du Monastère, an even more gravelly road, also with nothing else in sight. Don't panic. Just keep at it, and you'll get there, but don't stop at the first parking lot you come to, since a little farther on there's another one that's closer to Ground Roots, this year's delightful new patio restaurant.

  View Full Column | 24/07/2009 1:00 AM | 3

• Fringe-area food finds could win standing ovations

  Since Wednesday, downtown streets have been teeming with people, a rare condition that will continue until the 26th, when the Winnipeg Fringe Theatre Festival ends. Every now and then, though, even the most culture-hungry will hunger for a different kind of sustenance and, fortunately, they can roam the world, gastronomically speaking, at a multitude of nearby choices, including the three new outlets listed above.

  View Full Column | 17/07/2009 1:00 AM | 3

• Hit & myth

  When characters in a movie or on television wield their chopsticks, plucking morsels of Chinese food from those cardboard (as opposed to foil) containers I can't actually see what they're eating but I just know it's good. At least, I always assume it is if the setting is New York, or some other fabulous food centre. Nevertheless, Winnipeg Chinese food has also always been good, which is probably why it was the first ethnic cuisine most of us were exposed to -- for many of us it was a Sunday-night ritual. That hasn't changed much, and although most eat-in Chinese restaurants will prepare food for takeout as well, there are a few outlets that specialize in take-out or delivery only.

  View Full Column | 3/07/2009 1:00 AM | 3

• There's no shortage of fabbo at Fazzo

  I Googled endlessly, looking for the meaning of Fazzo, which I was sure had to be an Italian word, but, apart from some people by that name, all I could come up with was Australian slang for fabulous or wonderful. A definition that might be applied to much, if not all of the food at Fazzo, the newest Corydon Avenue bistro. It's a strikingly attractive place -- sleek, stylish and modern, but not intimidatingly so, with a high raftered ceiling, comfortingly soft lighting, and a decor done in muted tones of sand, cafe au lait and chocolate brown.

  View Full Column | 26/06/2009 1:00 AM | 9

• Portuguese fave makes triumphant return

  This brand new Chave d'Ouro (the name means golden key) has had the longest gestation of any restaurant I can remember, and the owners must be heartily sick of my frequent phone calls, asking if it was open yet and, if not, when. Possibly they finally did open just to put an end to those pesky calls. The previous premises on Sargent Avenue closed about two years ago, leaving fans of that little Portuguese restaurant desperate for their fix of its fabled rotisserie-roasted chicken. Did I know where they had gone, they asked, and when, if ever, would they return.

  View Full Column | 19/06/2009 1:00 AM | 0

• Monumental comfort food at cosy little spot

  As a restaurant critic on expense account (don't hate me because I'm lucky) I can order almost anything I want, and price be damned. Within reason, of course. I've never dared order beluga caviar, and I've never been tested by the presence on any local menu of truffles -- not those rich chocolates, but that rare fungus that costs more than gold. Steaks and roast beef, however, do appear on most menus, and are at or near the top of the price range. As are racks of lamb and shrimp, (especially when they are called prawns or scampi). But there are times when I'd be just as happy with -- indeed, long for -- certain comfort foods that are usually at the low end of the price range.

  View Full Column | 12/06/2009 1:00 AM | 0

• Scenic drive, seductive setting, fab food

  IT’S May! it’s May! the merry month of May! as that jubilant old song has it, and it’s usually a lot earlier in the month that my car and I are drawn irresistibly to the Riv­er Road in St. Andrews, probably the most beautiful scenic drive in this part of the province. Well, we all know what happened to May — it was a washout, both literally and figuratively, and my spring ritual had to wait until the end of the month. Still, better late than never. What's more, there's a bonus if you stop for lunch at the Maple Grove Tea Room, which is located in Kennedy House, once a private home built in 1866, in Gothic Revival style. Half of the house is now a museum, furnished in the style of the period. The other half is a tea room, on a charming veranda tucked in between one of the original fieldstone walls on one side, and a wall of windows hung with white lace valences on the other, shaded by forest green awnings to keep the sun at bay.

  View Full Column | 5/06/2009 1:00 AM | 0

• Not fancy, but Elmwood has good eats

  Like the North End (about which I wrote a few weeks ago), the area on the other side of the river is also short on stylish dining. And, like the North End, Elmwood also has some interesting and appealing options. You might never know about them, though, unless you have friends in the area to tip you off, which is how I heard about Mercadito Latino. From outside it looks like a tiny grocery store, which is exactly what it is in the front, its shelves crammed with a dizzying selection of ingredients for whose who want to do their own Latino cooking. But work your way past them into the back and you'll find yourself in a windowless and ultra-simple little room that still manages to be bright and cheerful, with apricot coloured walls and a scattering of Latino artifacts -- maracas hanging from a high shelf that holds a TV, wee dolls on another shelf, and a huge sombrero on yet another.

  View Full Column | 29/05/2009 1:00 AM | 0

• Korean food that's fresh, flavourful and fiery

  I usually give new restaurants enough time to settle in before reviewing them but the process doesn't always work as planned. I first found Kimbaek a few years ago but, since communication on the phone was almost non-existent, I had no way of learning how long it had been open. And when I took a chance and visited the place anyway, I discovered that organization wasn't exactly a strong point either. The menu was very limited, but the food itself was good -- three-and-a-half stars' worth -- and I began to suspect that once the kitchen had found its footing it might be even better. A prophetic thought, apparently, since a few readers have insisted recently that Kimbaek is the best and most authentic Korean restaurant in the city. That, plus my own original impressions, began to make a return visit seem like a good idea.

  View Full Column | 22/05/2009 1:00 AM | 0

• Selkirk fixture not fancy, but food's fantastic

  The first thing you need to know about Barney Gargles is not to attempt it without a reservation. I'd been warned that it was always full, but didn't really believe it could be a problem in the middle of the afternoon, which is when we turned up -- about 4:30, to be precise -- and had to join a queue. And when we left almost two hours later the lineup was even longer.

  View Full Column | 15/05/2009 1:00 AM | 5

• Sandwiches great, but save room for dessert

  If everything else is just prologue to dessert, lunch is probably a better idea than dinner. I know that after I've been through an appetizer (even when shared) and a main course, I have trouble doing anything more than just nibble at dessert. Sandwiches are more manageable and today's two establishments offer a selection of good ones, to justify your indulgence in the beautiful baked goods you may really have come for. Dessert Sinsations is a spacious, airy place, with walls of tall windows on two sides, a cool modern ambience, and a superb location in the heart of midtown, just behind the Art Gallery. With its own parking lot, no less. It also has a noise level that discourages lingering -- high on its own, and downright deafening when the background music is amped up to foreground music.

  View Full Column | 8/05/2009 1:00 AM | 1

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